Hand Applique Tutorial

If you've ever thought about giving hand applique a try, but weren't sure how, you've come to the right place.  There are many methods for doing hand applique, but the one I am sharing here is the one that I find the easiest.

First, you will need some freezer paper.  You can find it at the grocery store where they sell the tin foil and plastic wrap.  You can also find it in quilt shops and fabric stores (aka JoAnn Fabrics).  They even make freezer paper in 8.5" x 11" sheets that can be put right into your printer, so you can print patterns directly to it!  If you aren't able to do that, then you can do it the old-fashioned way -- by tracing the pattern of your applique piece (in this case, a heart) onto a piece of freezer paper.  Then cut it out along the lines you just drew.

Next, place the heart shiny side down on the right side of your fabric and use a hot iron (on the "dry" setting -- no steam) to temporarily adhere the heart to the fabric.  If you aren't familiar with freezer paper, it is plastic-coated on one side.  When you press it to the fabric with the hot iron, it melts the plastic a little which makes the paper stick to your fabric.  It will stay as long as you need it, then peel off cleanly when you don't need it anymore.  I have found you can also re-use your freezer paper two or three times before the plastic wears off completely and it will no longer stick.

Once you have the heart in place, use a pair of sharp scissors to cut out your fabric heart about 3/8" beyond the pattern.  This will be your seam allowance that you will turn under to give the applique a nice, finished edge.

Use your fingers to fold over and "finger press" the seam allowance back toward the wrong side of the fabric.  If your pattern has curves (as this heart does), you will need to clip the curves to be able to fold it over flat (see next photo).
 

Notice how the bottom point is folded straight across at the tip of the point and then the sides are folded in one at a time to make the point.

Also, for an inside point (like at the top of this heart) you will need to clip into the center "v" to be able to fold the seam allowance back.

Once you have creased the seam allowance all the way around, you can remove the freezer paper template, which can actually be reused a few times before discarding.

This is how it should look from the back.

Now it is time to baste the seam allowance.  The color thread is not important, as these stitches will be removed in a later step and will not be seen in the final product.
Use a simple running stitch being careful not to pull the thread too tight.  The fabric should lay flat and there should be no puckering.

Here is a closer look at the basting stitches.

This is what the back side looks like with half of it basted.

This is what it should look like from the back when the basting is done.

Close-up of the bottom point.

All basted!












Now comes the fun part!  Position the applique on your foundation fabric.  I am stitching my heart to a 6" block.  To aide in centering the applique, I folded the foundation block in half (in both directions) and finger pressed it.
This gives creases which serve as guidelines to help center the applique.

Pin the applique in place.  I like to use applique pins, which are smaller and have smoother heads to keep the thread from getting tangled on them.


Always use thread that matches the applique piece.  I like to use an "applique sharp" needle and cotton thread.  These needles are very fine and have a very sharp point.  One downside is that the eye is pretty small, so you might need a needle threader to help thread the needle.

They can also bend fairly easily, so have several on hand in case yours gets bent.

Begin by tying a knot at the end of the thread.  Working from the top, poke the needle up through the back, catching a few threads of the applique.  Now put the needle down into the foundation fabric, close to the applique fabric, then angle it up and back through the applique fabric, catching just a few threads of the fabric.  Continue this stitch until your thread begins to run short.  

To finish off a thread, from the back side, take a few small stitches in the foundation fabric (underneath the applique, where it won't show), tie off a small knot and cut the thread.  When you are finished, it should look something like this from the back.

A close-up of the back.

Once you have sewn all the way around your applique piece, carefully remove the basting stitches.  
You have now just completed your applique block!  Congratulations!



Now that you know how to applique, take a look at some of the things you can create:

A beautiful, flowery border!

A garden of daisies!

A quilted alphabet!

A menagerie!

Whatever you decide to make, have fun with the possibilities of this technique!

Make A Handmade Book Cover

I am so excited to have finally made this!

I had an idea to make some fabric book covers for a while now, but this week I finally got down to business and made one!  I am so happy with how this turned out.

As I typically do, I tried to stick with using only materials I had on  hand (not that hard to do, since I have a plentiful stash of fabric scraps, buttons, ribbons, and other odds and ends).

I started by doing a quick Internet search to figure out the logistics of construction (I didn't use a pattern).  So, first I found this site which got my creative juices flowing.  Next I found this helpful tutorial video at About.com.  I basically followed the video tutorial's instructions, but I did make a few alterations, which I will share:

• I sewed all seams with a 1/4" seam allowance.
• I added some lightweight fusible interfacing -- fused it to the fabric that goes on the inside of the book cover.
• I added a ribbon bookmark, a pen holder, and a closure tab.
• I added some decorative embellishments.

Also, if you decide to make one of these, I have a couple of tips and suggestions:


1.  If you are making the cover for a spiral notebook (as I have), when you measure the width of your book cover, do it with the notebook in the CLOSED position.  I measured mine both open and closed and there was a significant difference in the result.  With the notebook closed, the measurement is larger.  You want to make sure you have accounted for those extra inches before cutting out your pieces of fabric.  Use a flexible tape measure and wrap it around the book to get the measurement.

2.  If you plan to topstitch, add more than 1/2" seam allowance all the way around.  I would increase that to 5/8" -- which is the same as adding 1 1/4" to the height and width of your book.  So, for example, if your book measures 8" high x 12" wide, cut your main pieces of fabric 9 1/4" x 13 1/4".
The reason I would do this is because I originally intended to finish the book cover off by topstitching all the way around, as shown in the video.  However, I did not end up doing that because after checking the fit of the cover with my notebook, I realized that topstitching the top and bottom edges was going to make it an extremely tight fit for my notebook.  There really wasn't adequate roominess for me to topstitch without compromising the fit.  The ends were a bit more roomy because I had added more than 1/2" to the width of the notebook, so instead of topstitching the entire book cover, I just did a little decorative blanket stitch on the ends.

3.  Sew your embellishments BEFORE sewing the pieces of the book cover together.  The only exception is that I didn't sew the pink button (for the closure tab) until the end because I wasn't sure of the positioning until after it was all together.  My stitches ended up hidden behind the inside cover anyway, so it worked out just fine.


Well, that's about it.  If you have any other questions, feel free to comment below and I will try and reply as best as I can.  

Good Luck!  And remember:  When life gives you scraps, make yourself a beautiful book cover!

Hexagon Tutorial

Below is My Step-by-Step Guide to Beginning a Hexagon Quilt using the English Paper Piecing Method!

Before we start, I would just like to say that this is the particular method that I use.  There are many different variations on the English paper piecing method.  In some versions, the paper is left in the finished quilt.  Personally, it doesn't sit right with me to leave the papers in, so my method does involve removing the papers in the process.

Here's a picture of the end-project I am currently working on.  This is just to give an idea of what I'm making.  I have already made some changes to how the edges will look in the finished quilt, but this still gives you the overall idea.

Okay, so the first thing I do is print hexagon templates onto card stock. I use my EQ (Electric Quilt) program to do this. I can print hexagons in any size I want. Each side of these are 1 1/2" (1.5").  An 8.5" x 11" piece of card stock will yield 15 hexagons this size.

Next I cut out each hexagon and punch a small hole in the center of each one (you'll see why later).  I cut these out the old-fashioned way, with scissors.  Well, that's not entirely true.  I use a rotary cutter and ruler to cut these into five strips of three hexagons each.  I cut right on the lines of two edges (top and bottom).  Then I can stack the strips for easy storage and cut the individual hexagons out as I need them, or when I have time and want something to do with my hands -- like when watching t.v.


FYI:  Because of the number of templates I knew I would need, I chose to make my own, however, you CAN purchase ready-made hexagon templates.  They come in many different sizes.  The ones I have seen are made out of plastic.  You can also re-use these throughout the same project, so you don't necessarily have to make as many templates as there are hexagons in your finished project.

So, the next thing I do is pin each one of these hexagon templates to a piece of quilting fabric (100% cotton).  Then cut around the template leaving about 1/4 inch seam allowance all the way around.  If you've done much quilting, you should be pretty good at "eyeballing" 1/4"!

By the way, you can probably guess that this is a fantastic project for using up all those fabric scraps!

Next, I fold the seam allowance over the card stock template and baste it down with needle and thread. For the method I am using, it is important NOT to sew through the card stock. This is because you will need to "pop" the template out of the fabric later on.  If it is sewn in, you will have a very difficult time doing that!

In addition, you do not want these basting stitches to appear on the front of your hexagons.  With this method I am using, you will not have to remove any basting stitches later on.  You just leave them in and no one ever knows they're there!

When I am finished basting, this is what it looks like from the front.

So, here you have it in three steps:  Pin, Cut, & Baste.  Repeat this until you have the desired number of hexagons for your finished project.

Here are some completed hexagons.  The next step is to sew these little guys together.  This is done by hand, as you'll see in the next few photos.

A Word About Hand Sewing:
If you detest hand sewing, this project is NOT for you!  For me, that is one of the most enticing things about this project.  It not only forces you to slow down, it can be relaxing and helps you enjoy the process of creation.  Another plus is that it is very portable! As such, I can work on this just about anywhere, anytime, anyplace....and I just love that!

Okay, so you need some high quality sewing thread.  I used 100% cotton, but you can use whatever you prefer.  You could also use hand quilting thread.  One thing I find is very helpful is using a little beeswax to coat the thread before sewing hexagons together.

And I don't cut a very long piece of thread at all.  I usually cut a piece the length of my hand to my elbow -- that's it.  I find if it's any longer than that, it starts to fray and I have to dispose of it anyway before I can use the entire length.

I start by threading the needle (I use a quilter's between) and making a knot at one end.  Then I run it through my wheel of beeswax a couple of times.  Then I line up two hexagons (right sides facing) and start by inserting the needle through the right corner of both pieces.  Then I proceed to stitch from the right corner to the left corner.  I use a simple overcast stitch -- always coming into the fabric from the back with the needle.
You only need to "catch" a few threads of each fabric (See photos).  You don't want to sew through the card stock template.  I repeat, do NOT sew through the card stock!

 Two hexagons (or hexies) partially sewn together.

Once you have two sewn together, you add a third.  You do this by opening up the first two you sewed and then adding your third to one of them.  For the quilt I am working on here, I need to make 72 "flower" patches.  Each flower patch consists of 7 hexagons -- 1 center hexagon (mine are all yellow fabrics) and 6 "petals" (multicolored fabric scraps) that surround it.  I sew one petal to one center yellow.  Then I add the other five petals until all six sides of the center hexagon are sewn.

Here is another picture of a second "petal" hexagon being sewn to a yellow center hexagon.

Yellow center with two "petals" sewn on.  Here's how it looks (from the back) when you open it up.

And here is how it looks from the front. 

Here is a completed flower patch!

Once you have all six hexagons sewn to a center hexagon, you are ready to "pop" out the center hexagon's card stock template.  I use the blunt end of a wooden skewer to do this.  I insert it into the hole in the template and then pop the template out.  Keep your templates!  You can re-use them to make more hexagons!

Now, this is VERY IMPORTANT -- you ONLY pop out the template of the center hexagon.  The rule is:  You can only pop out a template if ALL SIX SIDES of the hexagon are sewn.  If you pop out templates before all six sides are sewn, you will have a very difficult time sewing your hexagons to one another.

With the card stock out of the center hexagon, you are now able to fold the flower unit in half to sew the sides of the petal hexagons to one another.

Here's another finished flower patch.

Here is how they appear from the back.  Notice that the center hexagon templates have been removed, but the six petal hexagon templates remain in place.

Here's a close-up of my stitching.  I sew pretty small stitches because I am thorough and I want this quilt to last!

For the quilt I am making, I am surrounding each flower with various muslin hexagons.  Again, one of my purposes is to use up a large stash of scraps!
So, I build around the flower petals in the same way that I built around the center hexagon.  I remove templates as I go.  Solid green hexagons will then be added to finish off the design.  Refer to my photograph at the beginning to see what the finished project is intended to look like.

Here's the back.  As each hexie is surrounded on all six sides with new hexies, the templates are popped out.

I began this project around March of 2010.  Here was my progress as of September 5, 2010.  I made a total of 13 flowers and sewn muslin hexagons around all but two of them.

All 13 flowers and all the hexagons I had made up to this point are in this picture.  As I have time, I will post updates as to how this quilt is coming along.  It's quite further along than this now!

Yellow centers and flower petal hexagons ready to be sewn!

Muslin hexagons

My then 2 1/2 year old son playing with the hexagons!